The beauty of co-creation

Fashion stylist and writer Michelle Duguid discusses why two heads are better than one when it comes to grace and style

Many philosophers, notably Plato, have debated that humans are hardwired to be selfish. Despite the legacy of these beliefs in modern times, the idea of our innate selfishness is being increasingly challenged. There is a counter argument that suggests the reason we are so successful as a species is our ability to collaborate. The Nordic term that dates back centuries 'dugnadsand' is now being bandied about by happiness experts as a key to a better life. It literally translates to mean help, communal work or support in Norwegian. So how could this apply to the creative industries where that community spirit has been alien due to politics of secrecy, competitiveness, and design being a highly valuable asset, not to be shared?

The heart and soul of any great collaboration, two ideas come together to create something that neither could create on their own. It’s an alliance, a partnership, an association, and ends up being bigger than the sum of its parts. The beauty of co-creating is that it can take both fashion brands into unknown territory where everything can be possible. Look at Swedish giant H&M, they have established an unseen dynamic between a retailer chain and a high fashion brand. It all started with Karl Lagerfeld’s one-off collection back in 2004, and since then designer-led clothing at affordable prices was here to stay as customers went crazy for it and demanded more. According to Statista, 60 per cent of Gen Z and Millennial consumers have purchased special editions created by brands in collaboration with different artists/brands.

One of the most groundbreaking unions between art and fashion—Spanish artist Salvador Dalí and Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli is also one of the first ever. These two powerhouses of the Surrealist movement came together in the early 1930s to create original art, fashion and haute couture. Although somewhat tumultuous, the partnership gave us the infamous 'Dinner Dress with Painted Lobster'. Worn by Wallis Simpson for a Vogue spread in 1937, the dress is considered to be one of the most iconic garments of the era. Crafted from off-white, silk-organza, it features a crimson waistband, illustrated sprigs of parsley and, most importantly, a giant painted lobster. Allegedly, Dalí wanted to add mayonnaise to the dress but Schiaparelli vetoed the idea, much to his annoyance.

There was a trickle of luxury fashion collaborations after this, notably Karl Lagerfeld’s relationship with Chanel which began as a collaboration in the 1980s with his friend and designer Hervé Léger. It had such an impact that Lagerfeld took charge of the firm the following year. The 1990s was then the start of the modern era featuring a steady growth in the number of luxury collaborations that continues to this day. Nike collaborated first with Japanese fashion label Comme des Garçons to add a high fashion sensibility to its sneakers and sportswear, a partnership that continues to bear fruit for both parties. 

In 2001 Marc Jacobs as creative director at Louis Vuitton merged the global contemporary art scene with fashion and produced some stunning collections. The luxury luggage brand embraced Stephen Sprouse’s graffiti and then for the Spring/Summer 2008 collection, Marc Jacobs collaborated with artist Richard Prince. They decided to bring the artist’s Nurse paintings to life when the models walked down the runway dressed in see-through nurse dresses. Other references to Prince’s art were worked into the LV bags. More recently Louis Vuitton under the creative director Kim Jones also launched one of the most recognisable collaborations with skate brand Supreme. They came together to create a collection that included denim jackets, red and white waist bags, backpacks, handbags and pouches featuring powerful co-branding.

Under the watch of creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior it has now become customary for the French brand to celebrate and collaborate with craftspeople. This year Maria Grazia Chiuri and the Dior Cruise show journeyed to Drummond Castle in Perthshire, where she teamed up with local fashion brands and designers, and celebrated the historic connection between Scotland and France. The designer worked with knitwear specialists Johnston of Elgin and Esk Cashmere, as well as Harris Tweed, who she’s been working with for some time. Milliner Robert Mackie was enlisted to create headpieces, and a new partnership came in the form of an alliance with Le Kilt, the cult London Fashion Week label bringing the iconic kilt style to a new generation. Founder Sam McCoach joins Grace Wales Bonner as part of a cohort of rising female designers Chiuri has used her platform to uplift and shine a spotlight on. 

The biggest question is why would a big fashion brand help smaller brands? I guess in this case it keeps Dior very current and gains access to a younger audience while being like a supportive godfather of fashion. It also enhances a brand’s credibility within the fashion industry, and maybe we should remember the spirit of dugnadsand and how we are happier when we support people and work together.

HERD x BAY GARNETT

This joint collection, drawing inspiration from early 70s silhouettes, blends traditional knitwear designs from Herd with the beatnik edge that stylist Bay Garnett is known for. Featuring five distinct knitwear pieces, this beautiful collaboration also sees the introduction of leather and suede pieces, a first for HERD.

herdwear.co

Mulberry x Rejina Pyo 

The limited edition capsule between British brand Mulberry and South Korean fashion designer Rejina Pyo comprises bags, accessories, ready-to-wear and jewellery, with Pyo’s singular design vision with made-to-last quality and community spirit. Mulberry x Rejina Pyo is the latest chapter in the Mulberry Editions series of collaborations with leading contemporary design talent.

mulberry.com

Cutler and Gross x The Great Frog

Luxury eyewear brand Cutler and Gross and rock'n'roll jewellers The Great Frog joined forces on an exclusive collaboration. They combined over 100 years of craftsmanship to create collectible eyewear. Each glossy frame is adorned with The Great Frog's legendary gothic metalwork cast in sterling silver and plated in 24K gold. Daggers stab the frontals and vipers snake up the temples. 

cutlerandgross.com

Palace x Berghaus

Palace have collaborated with British outdoor legends Berghaus on a capsule range of key outerwear styles and casual pieces. Taking cues from styles popular in the 90's, the collection includes their iconic Tempest technical jacket updated in a cobalt blue, an acid yellow and classic black all with logo flip branding details on zips and body. A fleece two-tone zip-up jacket comes in a petrol/purple, grey/purple and plain black with Palace across the back, whilst a classic T appears with Palace on the back in the recognisable Berghaus graphic, also in three colour options- white, navy and black.

palaceskateboards.com

Fable England x Natural History Museum

British heritage brand, Fable England, have launched a capsule collection with London's iconic Natural History Museum for AW24. The 38-piece collection features hand-painted enamel jewellery, illustrative print silk scarves, luxury sleepwear as well as signature Fable England bag shapes, dominated by an exclusive print.

fableengland.com

Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini x My Style Bags

This is a capsule collection from two Italian brands perfectly designed to meet the needs of a traveller. Combining the design elegance of fashion designer brand Philosophy with the travel bag expertise of Milan based My Style bags this small collection offers a roomy duffle bag perfect for a long weekend and one small wash bag. The bags come in a choice of two fabrics, a classic canvas or a fresh stripe and they can be personalised which has always been one of the distinctive design offerings of My Style Bags. 

philosophyofficial.com 
mystylebags.com/en-uk

BAE x Elina Sanda  

Evening wear design house BAÉ have collaborated with Latvian artist Elina Sanda to produced seven beautiful dresses serving as a canvas for Elina's artistic vision. 

baemoments.com

Tyler Ellis x Slim Aarons

Handbag designer Tyler Ellis has collaborated with the estate of the renowned American photographer Slim Aarons. Celebrating the photographer's iconic legacy, Tyler Ellis has reworked three of Aarons' most prolific images 'Sunbathing by the sea in Florida' (circa 1955), 'Beach at St. Tropez' (1977) and 'Hotel du Cap Eden Roc' (1976) for the 'Snapshot Satchels' meticulously fashioning them onto their signature Marilyn and Stella handbag designs. The limited-edition capsule is comprised of 25 pieces per style.

Exclusive to tylerellis.com 

Omega x Swatch
Aptly named after the planetary bodies in the solar system, Swatch and Omega have collaborated on a range of 11 watches featuring all the hallmarks of the legendary Omega Speedster Watch. The hours, minutes, chronograph seconds hands, and hour markers sport Super-LumiNova® for a perfect glow in the dark. 

swatch.com

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