Heritage on a plate
Meet the coolest culinary creatives, sharing their ancestral Asian recipes in their favourite European cities. Megan Murray reports
There’s no cooler calling than being part of the food scene right now. Culinary creators are sharing their recipes with hundreds of thousands of followers across the world, while supper clubs are officially back in fashion, creating a closer connection between chefs and diners which fosters the perfect environment for learning about the culture and history behind a cuisine. While this industry is blowing up, we’re celebrating the opening of the first Asian 25hours Hotel, now open in Jakarta, and looking to the way foodies from not only Indonesia, but Japan and the Philippines enjoy, honour and share their heritage on a plate while living in Europe. Be it a Jakarta-native whose London supper club has grown to a world-wide event, or Paris-based Tokyoite on a mission to help other East Asian chefs rock the gastronomic boat, each of these food enthusiasts have their own delicious story to share.
LONDON
Rahel Stephanie
Founder of Spoons supper club
When Rahel moved from Jakarta to London via Singapore at the age of 19, she was disappointed to find little representation of real Indonesian cuisine across the capital’s food scene. “I started my supper club in 2020 driven by my desire to share the flavours and stories of my heritage with those around me and to put authentic Indonesian flavours firmly and accurately on the western map.” It’s clear Rahel has oh-so succeeded. She’s appeared on Masterchef, hosted Channel 4’s Sunday Brunch, written a Jakarta guide for the Financial Times and developed a dish for Wagamamas, all while producing supper clubs globally. But, for Rahel, it’s not just about creating delicious dishes. “My mission extends far beyond a tasty menu. To me, cooking Indonesian dishes serves as a way of reclaiming, decolonising and celebrating the foods of my heritage. I hope to cast a light on the diverse culinary range of Indonesia and I’m a strong believer in the importance of real representation of the food that comes from marginalised communities.”
A large part of this is conveying the complexity and breadth of the techniques, ingredients and flavours that begin to build an over-arching picture of Indonesian food, something Rahel says she’s barely dipped a toe into. “A lot of people don’t realise that we’re built up of 17,000 islands and how rich our culinary roots are, but it’s something I’m really enjoying sharing not only in London, but through pop-ups in Paris, Berlin, Bali, Melbourne and beyond.” Amongst her travels, Jakarta has remained a constant. Her restaurant recommendations include Kopi Es Tak Kie, Pagi Sore and Bubur Ayam H. Jewo. No doubt, feeling close to her home city while on the other side of the world is hard, but Rahel says that the heartwarming response from her supper clubs makes it easier. “For many guests my dishes are their first experience with Indonesian food, which is always an honour. Beyond the food, Spoons helps me celebrate and share my culture and heritage in a meaningful way.”
Rahel’s go-to Indonesian foodie spot in London: “Toba in St. James’s Market offers authentic Indonesian dishes in a refined dining setting, skillfully avoiding the overcomplication often seen in attempts to ‘elevate’ the cuisine.”
1a St James’s Mkt, London SW1Y 4AH
Follow Spoons at @eatwithsp00ns
BERLIN
Kim Boshoven
Recipe developer & food stylist
Born to a Filipina mother and Dutch father, Kim has always felt the push and pull between her East Asian and Northern European beginnings. After growing up in Dubai (her parents emigrated there in the 1980s), the Netherlands began calling and so, at 18 she attended university there, before spending time in Switzerland and eventually settling in Berlin in 2018.
Growing up, Kim’s family home was alive with parties and celebrations with big connections to the expat Filipino community, in which food played a huge part. But, while she’s always felt inspired by cooking, it wasn’t until she was made redundant from her fashion job that she imagined a career in gastronomy. “I saw being laid-off as a sign to finally pursue food so I walked into Ayan, one of my favourite Filipino restaurants in Berlin (and a must-try if you’re visiting!) and asked for a kitchen job. I started the very next day,” Kim smiles.
Though Kim’s connection to cooking Filipino dishes comes from her mother, her style isn’t exactly traditional. Experimenting on Instagram with quirky flavour combinations and a minimalist aesthetic, she has quickly racked up 20,000 followers who love her unique take with posts featuring cocktails derived from rice water gathered from fields in the Philippines or Filipino coffee and pandan-flavoured tiramisu, presented in an on-trend, contemporary aesthetic.
“When it comes to plating, I draw on the visual and aesthetic sensibilities I developed during my fashion days, like turning rhubarb strands into frilly ribbons for a cocktail garnish or choosing dishware and glasses with unique textures and characteristics,” says Kim, her playful and creative nature coming to the fore.
Quoting her current catchphrase as ‘little recipes with big table energy’, Kim says that she prefers to use a minimal ingredient list and make an impact with unusual flavour combinations like pairing French peppercorn sauce with grilled pineapple steaks or using Greek rosewater to enhance a Filipino soy dipping sauce.
As well as foodie inspiration, you can also find plenty of drinks ideas on Kim’s social media accounts, a craft she’s enjoyed developing “as a great creative exercise to explore new techniques and stretch their versatility”.
Olive oil vermouth aperitif anyone?
Kim’s go-to Filipino foodie spot in Berlin
“The Filipino food scene in Berlin needs a lot of work! Of course, please try Ayan where I am part of the team, but I also love to shout out a Berlin-based Filipino coffee brand called Kape De Filipina who source coffee beans directly from small-holder farmers in The Philippines and do workshops at their HQ.”
Potsdamer Str. 69, 10785 Berlin
Follow Kim at @menubyoven
PARIS
Sayaka Kaneko
Co-founder of Balbosté
Next year marks Sayaka’s 20th anniversary in Paris. Previously an occupational therapist in Tokyo, she set off on a three-month backpacking trip around Europe with her husband in search of a more balanced lifestyle. Seduced by Paris (really, who isn’t?), they stayed put and Sayaka began to develop her skills as a cook. “I had a growing passion for DIY Japanese cooking using locally available ingredients and as I looked into launching my own catering business, I met Charlotte Sitbon who had already conceived the idea for production culinary house Balbosté,” she explains.
Unlike anything else in this space, Balbosté is a collective of creatives who produce high-level dining experiences for brands rooted in storytelling, not simply feeding. Think a mini, edible checkers board for Louis Vuitton, cocktails of banana water, pollen and pearls for a Jimmy Choo event, and the creative direction behind Selfridge’s Howl’s Moving Castle cafe in collaboration with Loewe. One of the things that makes Balbosté unique is its refusal to conform. But, for Sayaka, bringing a Japanese perspective to concepts has always been important. “I enjoy innovating our dishes. I created quartz, jewel-like candy inspired by Japanese confections kohakutou and shared insights about Japanese culture.” The changing gastronomic landscape in Paris has also pushed her to share Japanese cooking with locals, not just clients. “When I arrived, it was hard to find authentic ingredients but now Asian supermarkets are scattered across the city. In restaurants, it’s not unusual to see ingredients like miso on the menu and you’ll often find sake in cocktail bars, too.”
Sayaka is also now consulting for some upcoming projects and right now, is excited to help launch a stylish Asian cafe serving healthy meals. “The cafe owner, Jason, is a third-generation Chinese-Frenchman in his twenties who was born and raised in Paris. My daughter, born to Japanese parents, is also a Parisian native, and I sometimes feel like I’m seeing a glimpse of her future. Children like them grow up influenced by their parents’ cultures while navigating their own identities and creating new lifestyles, and food undoubtedly plays a significant role in this. Seeing the East Asian food scene in Paris grow and develop, and having the chance to more personally share Japanese culture in my own way is what I’m looking forward to now.”
Sayaka’s go-to Japanese foodie spot
in Paris
“Sagan, in the 6th, is a ‘kappo wine bar’ offering à la carte Japanese dishes thoughtfully paired with curated wines. It exudes the comforting atmosphere of a traditional Japanese koryouri-ya.
8 Rue Casimir Delavigne, 75006, Paris
Follow Sayaka at @biphase_kitchen
Follow Balbosté at @balboste_paris
LONDON
Ranie Saidi
Content creator and founder of The Malay Cook supper club
Growing up, Ranie was his grandmother’s shadow. She was born in the East coastal province of Kota Baharu, Kelantan, and after marrying his grandfather who was serving in the Malaysian faction of the British Army, found herself in a nomadic lifestyle that made it challenging to hold down stable employment. Eventually, it was cooking that called her; having learnt dishes from the army wives hailing from across the country, she built up a wealth of regional recipes that one day would make her the much-loved village cook of Ranie’s home. “Living under the same roof as my grandmother, I eagerly watched as she whipped up signature dishes. The kitchen became our sanctuary, where magic happened and stories were shared. Together, we embarked on expeditions to bustling markets, handpicking the freshest ingredients to bring her dishes to life. I witnessed her charm and unwavering commitment to her craft.”
In 2013, Ranie moved to the UK and pursued a career in hospitality here, at first working with corporate clients before developing his own supper club, The Malay Cook, as a way of ‘continuing the legacy’ of his grandmother after she passed away. Ranie says that Malay cooking is unique in its harmonious balance of flavours, where no single taste should overpower the
others, spanning creamy coconut-based dishes to aromatic, spice-driven stews and curries. “It’s hard to find many of the true staples of Malay households in commercial Malaysian restaurants in the UK,” he adds. “My mission is to introduce the UK to a new spectrum of Malaysian cuisine, sharing dishes that are both exciting and accessible using ingredients available in local supermarkets.” Having hosted sell-out supper clubs in both London and New York with Soho House, as well as producing pop-ups at Alexandra Palace, and teaming up with the Curry Club London and Dusty Knuckles on events, Ranie is on his way to “making Malay cuisine a staple in the European and American foodie scene.”
Ranie’s go-to Malaysian foodie spot
in London
“Mambow in East London is where chef Abby Lee beautifully recreates dishes from her Chinese Malaysian heritage with Nyonya dishes paired with an exquisite drinks list to complement.”
78 Lower Clapton Road, London, E5
Follow Ranie at @raniesaidi
