Trailblazer: High-end cuisine - Tiger Lily Burning

Matt Charlton talks to Stephan Erletz, head chef of the Asia-inspired Tiger Lily restaurant

Fresh-faced German chef Stephan Erletz, age just 30, has now hauled his pots, pans, and food-smoking gun (probably) over to Denmark, to be head chef the shiny new Tiger Lily restaurant in the equally as shiny 25hours Hotel Paper Island Copenhagen. His background and rise are impressive. You could almost call him a ‘wunderkind’, or whatever the German word for that is. He comes from Christoph Rüffer’s team at the two Michelin-starred Haerlin in the Fairmont Hotel Hamburg, then taking up his first position as head chef in a five-star hotel in Kitzbühel.

Is there any way of describing how hard a team has to work to achieve two Michelin stars, because I can only really imagine the kitchen in ‘The Bear’? “To achieve 2 Michelin stars, consistent high-quality performance is essential, along with a refined sense of taste to create sophisticated dishes with the perfect balance”, says Stephan. “Teamwork is crucial. For most chefs, it is not just a job, but a combination of hobby, passion, and work.”

So, for those of us not in the restaurant game, what is the difference between a head chef and executive chef? Is it an office and a special pen? “Executive chefs are more commonly found in large hotels with multiple kitchens, resorts or larger culinary establishments”, Stephan tells me. “In [these places], there may be multiple kitchen chefs under the executive chef’s supervision. Executive Cchefs are often more focused on administrative tasks than cooking day-to-day”. He continues, “For 25hours, head chefs take on both administrative tasks and daily cooking.”

The inspiration for Tiger Lily begins with the cuisine and the vibrant colours of Asia. The venue itself thrives on wood and paper art, and guests are taken on a culinary journey through the Far East whilst sitting smack dab in the middle of Northern Europe. But what were Stephan’s big headline plans when he took on the restaurant? “The primary goal of a chef is to delight their guests with the food and provide them with an enjoyable evening. For me personally, it is important to deliver delicious dishes that are as fresh and of the highest quality as possible”. So far, so general… but can he pick a favourite child? “In this cold, dark time of year, our Chinese Ramen is a perfect fit. It features handmade wide noodles paired with braised lamb shank, cooked in a 15-year-old master stock.”

“Our restaurant has a fantastic Asian ambiance that, together with the food, might give guests a bit of an Asian-inspired feeling. The neighbourhood is very important for the restaurant, [but] we aim to be presented away from being a hotel restaurant. Tiger Lily is like a separate brand”. 

The brevity and succinct nature of Stephan’s answers suggest that he is a busy man (or maybe just that he’s German), so I’d better let him get on. Before he goes though, the most important question: how does he like his eggs? “I really enjoy poached eggs, especially as part of a classic Eggs Benedict”. Know, the eggs, know the man.